Chaîne des Rôtisseurs

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We do not always think it is good feeling to be a woman. In March we definitely do.

We can say it is already tradition that our Bailliage makes special day of the International Women’s Day by inviting female-members for a ladies’ lunch.

Ladies felt sort of pampered this time again with being hosted on 9th March in the private room of the Vadrózsa restaurant. The thoughtful idea a very feminine theme: Pearls & Women made the event even more attractive.

Needless to say, each and every guest wore pearl in the most different ways – necklace, eardrop, pendant, ring, brooch, etc.

On entering the room the first thing we saw was the table - candle-holders, candles in different shapes and sizes, flowers, pearl by piece and string, evening bag woven from pearls, tiny little items with pearls on glass stands with cloche… Its beauty enchanted us. Judit Merkler-Szántó Dame de la Chaine was the main brain behind the decoration. Her phantasy did not stop here. There was a projector in the room to facilitate viewing the photos of international stars wearing gorgeous (sometimes heavy, sometimes chunky) pearl jewellery. Judit brought the printed photos of the same, too.

Éva Földvári Dame de la Chaine had her own share. She put a large collection of pearls on display. Nobody could resist touching, holding the lose strings in beautiful colours and shades. In addition to her presentation she revealed interesting, sometimes exciting details in the world of pearls.

Ildikó Lovas Officier, while diving into the literature, found something which was perfect choice to read from, String of Beads by Somerset Maugham. (The title accidently rhymed with the theme of the day.)

Ráchel Raj Maitre Rotisseur was very generous to surprise us with a tiny pearl on a seashell manufactured from marzipan.

In the first half of our time we ate with our eyes. Then a very-very delicious lunch was served. The food and drinks crowned the whole event for which we were more than thankful to Gábor Földvári Maitre Restaurateur, owner and to fellow-member Alexandra Pereszlényi Rotisseur, chef.

We can’t wait enjoying our time on Women’s Day in the coming year.

Female members

on behalf I.P. Novak/BD Hungary

February is the month when Chaine diner amical is carnival-themed. It is not by demand, it comes automatically that organizers help guests to step out of routine and have the feeling. Hilton Budapest Hotel meant the venue for those who could not make visit to those parts of the world where high festive season could have entertained them.

On 8th February members and guests arrived wearing masks. Honestly, we all were surprised by the phantasy of people when seeing the colourful appearance – red, blue, gold, pink, black, green, etc. – and funny looks from clown to animal. The most liked mask was awarded with Törley sparkling wine.

This time, to help guests to identify their seats, tables were not marked with numbers but named with cities which are well-known, popular venues for carnivals like Venice, Rio, Cologne, Tenerife, Nice, Basel, Mohacs, etc. The decoration added little more to the atmosphere: printed details from famous painters’ paintings with persons wearing masks were spread on the tables. We were thankful to Judit Merkler-Szántó, Dame de la Chaine who did excellent job with not only having the idea but creating everything with her capable hands.

If this was not enough, Ildikó Lovas, Officier read poems, naturally related to carnival season.

It goes without saying that the breath-taking view from the tables to the other side of the Danube was the precious bonus.

We said big thank to general manager Peter Knoll and Imre Maráczi Maitre Rotisseur, corporate chef for having us and sharing that wonderful evening with us.

Please study the menu, which, in our thinking speaks for itself and could not have been better.

Welcome drink

Fantinel Prosecco extra dry

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Amuse bouche

Fresh baked blue cheese & basil bouché

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Duck liver terrine, rosehips jam, gingered brioche

Tokaji furmint, Patricius 2016

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Celery velouté, truffels, hazelnuts

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Sea scallop & chorizo, passe pierre alga, beurre blanc

Egri Chardonnay Battonage, Thummerer 2015

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Black Angus fillet mignon

Winter veg, dumplings, créme fraiche espuma

Cuvée 7, Sauska 2015

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Chocolate mousse & rasberry

Tokaji Aszú, 6-butt, Andrássy 2000

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Coffee / Tea

Calvados / Ramazotti Amaro

Ivan P. Novak/BD

It was a perfect idea to start the Chaîne 2020 programs at Arany Kaviár Restaurant which is celebrating the 30th birthday in this year. The owners, Attila Molnár Officier Maître Restaurateur and Sasha Nyíri Maître Rôtisseur are both active members of Chaîne de Rôtisseurs.

The welcome drink was a perfect Russian Mule cocktail. After the reception the hosts spoke about the dishes and told the story of the 30 years restaurant. Attila said: At the beginning we started in a tiny restaurant with a few tables and a small kitchen. Sasha and Attila both worked in hospitality business since they were teenagers. At the beginning it was a hobby, only later changed to profession. They wanted to make it better day by day and it hasn’t changed since then.

Today the Arany Kaviár became a very well-known modern Russian fine-dining restaurant. The owners truly believe that using contemporary technologies and keeping the traditions in the same time is a must.

There was a 10-cours modern Russian lunch with full of surprises!

Gillardeau No.1 oyster with lychee and elderflower, beetroot salad and smoked starlet with caviar to begin with.

It was followed by a creamy beef tartare with marrow and pine seeds, which was incredibly mouth-watering.

The traditional Hungarian duck liver terrine with Tokaj Aszú wine was a well-balanced dish with full harmony.

Afterwards a king crab leg was served with yuzu and carrot as a hot appetiser, with lovely citrusy flavours.

The soup was a Jerusalem artichoke soup with langoustine and truffle which has been picked and selected by Sasha!

As a main course there were two options, a sturgeon fillet or venison, both from Hungary.

Then magic happened. A dish which looked like a simple soft-boiled egg, but it wasn’t. It was a mascarpone and white chocolate egg white, filled with mango puree and served with Siberian sturgeon caviar on top!

Last, but not least the dessert arrived. Black salsify root dessert with pear and lemon were really unexpected combination of flavours.

The dishes were served on specially designed plates and were colourfully decorated.

The black and white brigades worked in full harmony according to a well-planned schedule.

After the coffee and petit fours, the kitchen and service staff came to the floor headed by the owners. They have received a big applause. A specially engraved plaque from the Hungarian Bailliage was presented to the hosts. 

The lunch was a great success. The Arany Kaviár Restaurant had to repeat it and organized another one a week later for the rest of Chaîne members!

Vive la Chaîne!

Ivan P. Novak/BD - Hungary

Celebrating the 30^th Jubilee and the 17 ^th  Grand Chapitre

Grand occasions require unique places, fantastic friends and wonderful menus. All these were together at the four-day program of the 17^th International Grand Chapitre held in Budapest. Hosting a Grand Chapitre is a celebration in itself, but we also had the 30^th anniversary of the Hungarian Bailliage.

It was our pleasure to welcome Jorgen Krenk Bailli Délégué of Denmark and Membre du Conseil Magistral as our Guests of Honour and the Induction Officer, representing the Siege Mondial. Members from several countries including the USA, China, Russia, Germany, Norway and Austria and naturally from Hungary were present with their spouses and partners to celebrate together in mid-September 2019.

Medieval friendly feast in the Sir Lancelot Restaurant on the day of arrival, tour and tasting in the famous Törley Sparkling Wine Museum, excursion to the countryside to enjoy traditional Hungarian hospitality at a farm inn Lajosmizse “Tanya Csárda” followed by a horse show the next day, and lunch with live music in Budapest Bistro were the “introductory programs” before the main event of the Hungarian Jubilee Grand Chapitre on Saturday evening. Undoubtedly the most awaited moments were the induction of new Members and the promotion and honouring of active Members who support the mission of our organization with dedication and professional expertise, enhancing its reputation both locally and globally.

The luxury Corinthia Hotel Budapest on Elisabeth Boulevard was an ideal venue for the celebration. First opened in 1896 as the Grand Hotel Royal it remains among the grandest in the city, combining elegance and history with state-of-the-art features. The festive menu was a salute to the founders of Chaîne de Rôttisseurs in 1248 using carefully selected herbs existing at that time and made with the highest expertise and latest technologies. Smoked trout, prawn tail, horseradish and red capia pepper as appetizer, goose soup à la 1248, then egg truffle, white bean and kale, followed by venison loin, carrot, almond, barley, sweet potato and Savoy cabbage as main course were served in the ball-room by waiters dressed in Renaissance-style costumes. The carefully selected drinks accompanied the meal like notes of a symphony. Splendid dessert and cheese variations awaited guests in a separate hall. The last program was on Sunday, a marvellous lunch in the world-famous 125 years old Gundel Restaurant, a fitting culmination of the rich program series.

The four days wonderful jubilee program was a great pleasure of gastronomy enhanced with Hungarian spirit, friendship and hospitality that deeply impressed all participants.

Vive la Chaîne!

Iván P. Novák

Bailli Délégué, Membre du Conseil Magistral

Photos were taken at the Grand Chapitre events by Ms Emese Simon.

An experience we will not forget...
It was a pleasure to begin the Chaîne programs for 2019 in one of the best restaurants of Hungarian top gastronomy, where art and perfection meet.

The Stand Restaurant that opened last July is the joint creation of four owners. Chefs Szabina Szulló and Tamás Széll, restaurant manager Ibolya Csahók and Zoltán Hamvas president of the Hungarian Bocuse d’Or Academy, created this fine dining restaurant with their exceptional skills and excellent team. They were the first Hungarians to earn a Michelin star in 2011, at that time in the Onyx Restaurant. Right from the very beginning they have regarded it as their mission to show the traditions and beauty of Hungarian cuisine and to carry forward its possibilities into modern gastronomy. This was their aim also at the Bocuse d’Or world competitions, where with their many successes, their European victory in 2016, their fourth place in the world finals in Lyon in 2017 and special place for the best meat dish, they have contributed to placing Hungary in the forefront of world gastronomy.

The moment of the warm welcome we received on our arrival at the Stand was the beginning of a carefully planned choreography, a true masterpiece. We were able to watch the “performance” from a prime vantage point as the glass wall between the restaurant space and the kitchen can be said to unite rather than separate us. The subtle pastel colours and refined design of the tableware added to the elegance. Everything radiated calm and professionalism, the mentality represented by the two brilliant Chefs. Szabina and Tamás have been working together for over two decades, their precision, creativity, technical and professional expertise are condensed in every single mouthful. The Chaîne Guests at the tables were all connoisseurs and they shared the same thought: we were enjoying one of the greatest gastrocultural experiences in the existence of our association.

House breads arrive in small copper bowls with iconic Hungarian cottage cheese spread and miniature versions of lángos, the best-known Hungarian street-food. Meanwhile, in the open-view kitchen Szabina is filling Spring into tiny glass balls: flowers, berries and pines are arranged side by side, we don’t know yet what their purpose will be... The amuse bouche, mangalica ham variations, Hungarian scones and goose-liver bon-bons are prepared on a bed of seeds in tiny glasses. Then grilled leeks, salty-lemony mayonnaise jus and Jerusalem artichoke chips arrive on an iridescent glass platter. All this is accompanied by a champagne made of France’s best grape varieties: fruity, soft, light Champagne Pommery Brut Royal.

The classic combination of smoked duck liver and Tokaji Cuvée is further enriched in taste with mango and passionfruit jelly, marinated roasted yellow beetroot and Piedmont hazelnuts. To our great satisfaction the next course on our menu is the prize-winning fish plate of the 2016 Bocuse d’Or: sterlet roll with langostino inside and sturgeon caviar on top, served with cucumber salad in the form of an elegant tube and a sauce of shellfish flavoured with champagne and dill. It is a visual delight, the flavours are indescribable and the texture is perfect. The accompanying wine is dry, a 2017 Egri Csillag from the cellars of Gergő Böjt and it goes exceedingly well with this special fish.

The main course arrives: a wonderfully creamy saddle of venison topped with grated smoked deer heart, lentil ragout, slow-fried crispy onion and onion jam, Jerusalem artichoke chips and venison jus. All the Guests could say was: unbelievable, and yet here it is!

Maître Sommelier Norbert Varga, envying the kitchen that was sending us unscheduled gift courses, comes with a surprise wine. We have already tasted Attila Gere’s super premium red wine that was originally intended to accompany the venison: Villányi Franc 2015. The gift was created six years ago, a refined Villányi Cabernet Franc 2009 premium wine from the Malatinszky Kúria, the winery that has brought Cabernet Franc to perfection in Hungary. It was a perfect experience, especially since Csaba Malatinszky himself, Professionnel du Vin member, was one of our company.

The dessert was marinated apple ribbons with almond mousse, apple jelly and lemon verbena ice cream on a bed of sweet crumbs. It was accompanied by Zoltán Demeter’s estate wine: Tokaji Late Harvest 2017. Then came vanilla mousse, spiced with a touch of salt, and poppyseed ice cream as the perfect counterpoint. And we discovered why Szabina had been filling glass spheres with flowers. They appeared as decoration on the snow-white ceramic plate of petits fours and gave an additional sensory experience to those who picked up the little spheres and smelt them: the fresh aromas of forest and field transported Guests into a meditative state after so many culinary delights. Coffee and tea were served in strikingly designed cups, together with Baron Gaston Legrand Bas-Armagnac, Cruxx Gemina quince and forest fruits brandy, and Unicum Szilva.

We trust that the Stand too will receive the highest recognition of its standard: a Michelin star. They use Hungarian ingredients to produce their thoughtfully planned dishes where the perfect balance and harmony of tastes create a real symphony. So, to end this report, here is the symphony of their sounds:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=7&v=HDrILhLBPwo

Please make a note that the Grand Chapitre is to be held in Budapest on 12 to 15 September. We look forward to welcoming You!

Vive la Chaîne!

Merkel-Szántó Judit, Dame de la Chaine

End-of-year supper in the Four Seasons Hotel in Budapest

In the view of Mr Isadore Sharp ̶ who is not only the founder and chairman of Four Seasons, but also the creator of a business philosophy – when people are travelling now, it is not luxury they are looking for; it is convenience and efficiency of use of their time. That is what Four Seasons offers, and in luxury quality. The company now in its fifth decade welcomes guests on all continents, and they add with a smile: except the Antarctic.

The Chaîne Father Christmas supper is always an eagerly awaited part of our preparations for the holiday season. As a result of the excellent lengthy preparation, this year the event was held in Hungary’s most exclusive hotel, the Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel. The building dating back to the first decade of the 20th century is an outstanding masterpiece of Hungarian Art Nouveau architecture, part of the World Heritage. Originally it was the headquarters of the London Gresham Insurance Company, hence the name of the building: Gresham Palace. This is how Father Christmas came to be in the palace...

The colour red is an important element in our tradition: it appears on the invitation, on the clothing of both the ladies and the men, as well as on the festive decorations. This year executive chef Árpád Győrffy, Maitre Rotisseur and his team achieved the feat of including the colour red throughout the entire menu. Using red ingredients, they delighted us with a great deal of creativity, innovation and many ideas. The welcome bouchées dressed in red were followed by foie gras tart, with red pomegranates and brioche as hors d’oeuvre. The hot hors d’oeuvre was ravioli brilliantly made with crabmeat, red lobster sauce and tomatoes; that was admired by even the most refined palates. The main course was a perfect venison with reimagined blood pudding and beetroot. The Hungarian and French threads ran discreetly through the whole menu, then appeared openly in the selection of cheeses. It rarely happens that guests express their recognition with a loud applause. But that is what happened when the dessert was evaluated; the white ball with a fine veil of red “snow” was received with unanimous enthusiasm. It is also important to mention the exceptionally beautiful, elegant china on which the different courses were served with great taste and friendly service.

Our host, Gerd von Sierakowski, the hotel’s F&B manager, supervised the harmony of the drinks and food, and the result was the expected perfection. He also told us about the plans of the hotel for the future that are focused on maintaining the highest quality and continue to attach great importance to protecting the environment and to sustainability.

Executive chef Árpád Győrffy’s expertise, professional dedication and his philosophy could be perfectly observed throughout the wonderful menu. He was assisted by Erik Kiss, Rotisseur who worked under his guidance; he had prepared Erik for the International Junior Chef Competition held in Taipei this year where he represented Hungary and won fourth place.

Ráchel Raj Maître Rotisseur, also greatly contributed to the congenial atmosphere of the evening, delighting us with the gift of a marzipan cake in the form of Father Christmas and an excellent game idea. The groups at the different tables all took part enthusiastically in writing a thematic Christmas menu with creative fantasy names. We trust that you too are preparing at home a creative festive menu of culinary delights for your loved ones. We wish you all a very Happy Holiday Season,

Vive la Chaîne!

Merkel-Szántó Judit, Dame de la Chaine